My Sinningia hybrids

I have been growing Sinningias for almost as long as I have been growing African violets. I began hybridising with them in the late 1980s.

My main interest is in the mid-size plants including S. eumorpha, S. conspicua, S. cardinalis and others similar. One of my aims has been to produce a more appealing peloric sinningia of this type. The original peloric "sport" of S. cardinalis was 'George Kalmbacher' which had very small lobes. I look to increase the size of the flower, the size and spread of the lobes and the range of colours while still retaining a heavy flowering habit. The majority of these plants will grow to 300mm to 800mm in height and approximately the same in width, according to type.

I have produced countless hybrids so far. Those appearing in the photographs are the only ones I think worthy of a name.

They are not available for sale as I do not have the space to grow sale quantity of plants. I do, however, produce some extra plants of each variety I think worthy and they are distributed in a very limited way.

A note on growing sinningias:

The plants I grow are best grown in a very bright position. In my area which is the Central Coast of New South Wales, they grow well in outdoor conditions, although a very bright indoor position will do. Sturdy compact plants with a multitude of flowers are the result of a high light level.

In this fairly warm climate they are little bothered by winter temperatures, because that is their period of dormancy. They retreat to a dormant tuber that sits at or partly above the surface of the soil or potting mix. While dormant they should be protected from freezing temperatures and from flooding. A little moisture is needed to keep the tubers from withering.

Many of my plants are grown in a shadehouse, whose main function is to protect them from bugs, rather than to provide shade. I grow most plants in pots. I only plant in the garden those tubers that are spare plants, or which I don't really need. The pots are then placed under cover during winter so they cannot become too wet.

The potting mix should be light textured, yet moisture retentive. Pots should be squat shaped and not normally more than 30mm wider than the tuber. Once in active growth there is quick growth so regular fertilising is needed.

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